Help your plants establish healthy roots by taking time during the planting stage and giving special care during the first growing season. Attention devoted to your plants when they first go in the ground or container will be repaid many times over.
Specific planting instructions often come with plants purchased from a local or mail-order nursery and the Internet is another good information source. But, there are some good, old-fashioned and common sense planting to-do’s that apply to most all plants.
Location. Where in the garden will the plant be placed? Take an assessment of the garden. What areas are in full sun most of the day? What areas have shade? If there are prevailing winds, is there protection? What type of soil? Are there stucco walls that retain heat? All of these are important when selecting a plant. A sun-loving plant will not be happy in the shade, and a shade-loving plant will wilt and shrivel in full sun. It’s important to find the right location the first time around since many plants do not like to be disturbed once in the ground.
Dig. Digging a large enough hole is particularly important for plants in one-gallon or larger containers. A plant’s new home should be roomy enough to allow it to establish a healthy root system. Dig the hole three to four times larger than the pot the plant is currently in, and at least one and one-half times deeper. In addition to allowing the roots to spread, the larger hole allows for good soil amendment, which will help the plant thrive.
Muddy in. After placing the plant in the ground, make a raised rim of soil around it, slightly wider than the root area, and fill to the brim with water. This will help the roots hold water until the plant becomes established. It is important for the new plant to absorb water through the roots immediately, or it can suffer transplant shock. One way to ensure your plant is good to go from day one is to muddy-in the plant by drenching with water to force out air pockets that surround the roots. If a new plant wilts a few days afterward, despite the fact that the soil around it is moist, try providing some shade for a few days. Shade will slow down evaporation through the leaves, giving the plant a bit more time to establish itself in the new location.
Feed. Proper plant food should be a big part of the TLC a gardener gives to their plants. When amending the soil, working in compost is a good idea. Other plant fertilizers are also suggested to get new plants established and growing vigorously. Slow release fertilizers are good, and local nurseries can also recommend the best plant food for your plant. Again, pay attention to the type of plant. Food and water requirements vary.
Water. With a few exceptions, most new transplants need to be watered in on a daily basis for the first two weeks, especially if days are hot with no appreciable rainfall. (Best to check with a local nursery for water requirements specific to Santa Fe.) Xeric plants and some trees may require a different schedule. The main thing is to be sure your plants receive the proper amount of water. Container plants dry out even more quickly. Check them frequently, especially during hot, dry spells. A moisture meter which measures moisture below the soil surface is a good investment and can prevent over-watering. 
Mulch. Mulch saves water by keeping the soil moist, helps control weeds and provides a blanket of protection from harsh weather. The best mulch is organic: straw, pine needles, compost, and leaves. There are some good inorganic mulches such as gravel and even recycled ground-up tires, but organic mulches not only protect the plant, but also help improve the soil. IMPORTANT: Be careful to keep the mulch away from the stem of the plant. The plant needs to breathe, and if mulch is piled too heavily around the stem, the plant could die or develop a disease due to the lack of good air circulation. Never mulch over newly planted seeds. The best time to mulch is when seasons change and plants have to adjust to changes in temperature and light. Tuck your plants in for the cold winter months with a blanket of mulch .
Improve. Building up the soil by adding humus, compost, etc. at the time of planting is critical. Continuing to improve the soil benefits the large majority of plants by helping the soil to retain moisture, improve drainage and remain fertile. Exceptions are some xeric plants that prefer native soil. Find out about your garden soil. For instructions and information on soil testing, contact your County Extension agent. (Santa Fe County: 505-471-4711.)
Heavy clay soil needs organic matter to lighten the soil, allowing air to better circulate and water to drain more freely. A good blend is 10 percent sand, 40 to 50 percent clay, and 40 to 50 percent organic matter (composted leaves and vegetables, aged manure from horses, cows or chickens, peat, vermiculite, or gypsum). Mix the sand, clay and organic matter well into a crumbly brown mass that holds water but isn’t soggy, and work into the soil.
Sandy soil should be amended so that it will provide nutrients and hold moisture. Compost and organic matter such as described above plus a bit of clay, works well when amending sandy soils.
Add organic matter. Most plants (note exceptions already mentioned) will benefit from organic matter added frequently and heavily. Every year when preparing vegetable garden beds or beds for annuals, take the time to work in as much organic matter as possible. Work in organic matter when weeding. When mulching before frost, add four to five inches of good organic material. Over time, the soil will be richer and easier to work - adding to the enjoyment of gardening.
